The £800 Fake Charizard I Almost Bought
I was browsing eBay for Base Set Charizards. Found one listed at £750 (market was £900 to £1,000 at the time). Not suspiciously cheap, just “good deal” territory. Seller had 98% positive feedback, 200+ transactions.
I asked for more photos. Seller provided them. Card looked correct at first glance. I was about to buy.
Then I zoomed in on the energy symbols in the attack cost. They were slightly blurry. Not terrible, but not crisp. I compared to my other Base Set cards. Genuine cards have razor-sharp energy symbols. This didn’t.
I requested a light test photo. Seller refused. “Card is authentic, take it or leave it.” I left it.
Two weeks later, same seller’s account suspended for selling counterfeits.
This chapter covers how to identify fake Pokémon cards before you buy them, the specific tells that separate counterfeits from genuine cards, which tests work (and which are myths), and how counterfeiters are getting better at replicating cards (meaning you need multiple verification methods, not just one).
By the end, you’ll know the exact process I use to verify every card I buy, which red flags mean “absolutely fake” versus “possibly fake,” and when to walk away from deals that seem fine but aren’t.
Understanding the Counterfeit Landscape
Quality Tiers of Fakes (Know What You’re Dealing With)
Tier 1: Obvious Fakes (Easy to Spot)
- Wrong font entirely (Comic Sans energy symbols, incorrect text)
- Completely wrong colours (purple Pikachu, green Charizard)
- Spelling errors (“Pokeman” instead of “Pokémon”)
- Paper quality like printer paper
Where found: Aliexpress, wish.com, sketchy market stalls, £5 for “complete set”
Danger level: Low (no one with basic knowledge falls for these)
Tier 2: Mid-Quality Fakes (Require Closer Inspection)
- Colours slightly off but passable at glance
- Fonts mostly correct but slightly blurry
- Cardstock weight wrong (too light or too heavy)
- Holofoil pattern incorrect
Where found: eBay from sellers with limited feedback, Facebook groups, local classifieds
Danger level: Medium (catch casual collectors, especially online where photos hide details)
Tier 3: High-Quality Fakes (Difficult to Detect Without Testing)
- Colours very close to genuine
- Fonts nearly correct
- Cardstock weight similar
- Holofoil pattern close to genuine
- Pass visual inspection unless compared directly to known genuine
Where found: eBay from sophisticated scammers, private sales, “too good to be true” deals from seemingly legitimate sellers
Danger level: High (can fool experienced collectors without physical testing)
Most Commonly Faked Cards
Vintage (WOTC Era):
- Base Set Charizard (all versions: unlimited, 1st Edition, Shadowless)
- Base Set Blastoise
- Base Set Venusaur
- Shining Charizard (Neo Destiny)
- 1st Edition holos from any WOTC set
Modern:
- Umbreon VMAX Alternate Art (“Moonbreon”)
- Charizard VMax Rainbow Rare
- Pikachu VMAX Rainbow Rare
- Any Alternate Art chase card worth £100+
Promos:
- Van Gogh Museum Pikachu promo
- Pokémon Center exclusive promos
- Tournament prize cards
Visual Inspection Methods (Before You Buy)
Test 1: Card Back Comparison (Most Important First Check)
What to check:
- Blue colour saturation (genuine is specific shade of blue, fakes are too light, too dark, or wrong hue)
- Pokéball logo positioning (should be perfectly centred)
- Text sharpness (“Trading Card Game” should be crisp)
- Border thickness (even on all sides)
How to check: Compare side-by-side with known genuine card from same era. Even same set if possible.
Why this works: Card backs are standardised. Any deviation is red flag. Counterfeiters struggle to match exact blue colour.
Online buying: Request high resolution photo of card back. Zoom in. Compare to your genuine cards.
Test 2: Energy Symbol Sharpness (Highly Reliable)
What to check: Energy symbols in attack costs (fire, water, grass, lightning, psychic, fighting, colourless)
Genuine cards: Symbols are razor sharp, perfectly defined edges, solid colours
Fake cards: Symbols slightly blurry, fuzzy edges, sometimes wrong colours or shapes
Why this works: Professional printing produces perfect symbols. Counterfeit printing can’t match this precision.
How to check: Zoom in on high resolution photo or use magnifying glass in person. Compare to known genuine.
Test 3: Font Inspection (Text Tells All)
What to check:
- HP number (top right corner)
- Attack text
- Pokédex entry/flavour text
- Card number (bottom right or left)
Genuine cards: Consistent font, proper spacing, no irregularities
Fake cards: Font weight slightly off, spacing irregular, letters not perfectly aligned
Common tells:
- “e” in “Pokémon” wrong shape
- Numbers spacing off
- Bold/regular weight inconsistent
How to check: Compare text to known genuine card letter by letter.
Test 4: Holofoil Pattern Verification (For Holo Cards)
What to check: Holofoil pattern should match era and set standards
WOTC era patterns:
- Base Set through Neo: Cosmos holofoil (small stars/sparkles across card)
- Specific sets have specific patterns
Modern patterns:
- More varied, but still consistent within sets
- Alternate Arts have specific textures
Fake tells:
- Wrong pattern entirely
- Too shiny (looks like cheap wrapping paper)
- Too dull (barely visible)
- Pattern doesn’t cover correct area
How to check: Tilt card under light, observe pattern, compare to known genuine.
Test 5: Colour Accuracy (Requires Reference)
What to check: All colours on card (border, artwork, text)
Common colour issues in fakes:
- Yellow border too light or too dark
- Pokémon artwork colours saturated differently
- Black text appears grey or too dark
How to check: Side-by-side comparison with known genuine card from same set under same lighting.
Critical: Lighting matters. Use natural daylight or consistent LED light for comparison.
Physical Testing Methods (When You Have Card in Hand)
Test 6: Light Test (Non-Destructive, Highly Effective)
What to do: Hold card up to bright light source (phone torch, lamp, sunlight)
Genuine cards: Black layer visible inside card. Very minimal light passes through. Card appears opaque.
Fake cards: No black layer OR wrong colour layer. Significant light passes through. Can often see through card somewhat.
Why this works: Genuine Pokémon cards have black glue layer between card stock layers. This is manufacturing standard. Counterfeiters can’t easily replicate this.
Limitations: Some fakes do include a dark layer now. Use in combination with other tests.
How to interpret:
- No visible dark layer = 100% fake
- Dark layer present but wrong shade = likely fake
- Proper black layer = passes this test, continue other tests
Test 7: Cardstock Feel and Bend Test (Requires Experience)
What to do: Hold card, assess weight and flexibility. Gently bend card (DO NOT crease).
Genuine cards:
- Specific weight (not too light, not too heavy)
- Specific flexibility (bends slightly, returns to flat)
- Texture balanced between smooth and slightly rough
Fake cards:
- Too light (cheap cardstock)
- Too heavy (wrong material)
- Too flexible (bends too easily)
- Too stiff (doesn’t bend naturally)
- Surface too smooth or too rough
How to develop this skill: Handle many genuine cards. Learn what “correct” feels like. This becomes intuitive.
Limitation: Subjective. Works best with experience.
Test 8: Rip Test (DESTRUCTIVE – Last Resort Only)
What to do: Tear card in half, examine layers
Genuine cards: Black glue layer visible between card stock layers
Fake cards: No black layer, or white/grey layers throughout
When to use:
- Card is already damaged/worthless
- You need definitive proof for dispute
- You have duplicate you can sacrifice
NEVER use on:
- Valuable cards you suspect might be real
- Cards you don’t own
- When other non-destructive tests available
Reality: You almost never need this test. Light test gives same information non-destructively.
Test 9: Texture Assessment (Modern Cards Especially)
What to check: Modern cards often have textured surfaces (Alternate Arts, VMax, etc.)
Genuine textured cards: Specific raised pattern you can feel when running finger across
Fake textured cards: No texture, or wrong texture pattern, or texture too pronounced/too subtle
How to check: Gently run finger across card surface, feel for texture. Compare to known genuine.
Advanced Verification (For High Value Cards)
Professional Authentication Services
PSA Authentication:
- Submit card for grading
- PSA verifies authenticity as part of grading process
- If fake, card returned ungradable
- Cost: £20+ depending on service level
When worth it: Cards worth £200+ where authenticity uncertain
Beckett/CGC: Similar service, similar cost
UV Light Testing (Limited Use)
Theory: Genuine cards may fluoresce differently than fakes under UV light
Reality: Not reliable. Different sets respond differently. Modern vs vintage behave differently. Too many variables.
Verdict: Don’t rely on this. Use other tests.
Magnification Inspection (Print Quality Check)
What to do: Use 10x to 20x magnification to examine:
- Print dot pattern (genuine cards have specific rosette pattern)
- Text edges (should be clean, not fuzzy)
- Holofoil (should be uniform)
Genuine cards: Professional offset printing produces specific dot patterns
Fake cards: Different printing method produces different patterns, or patterns are irregular
Limitation: Requires knowledge of what correct pattern looks like for each era/set.
Buying Safely: Red Flags and Best Practices
Red Flags That Scream “Fake”
Red Flag 1: Price Too Good to Be True
- Base Set Charizard PSA 10 listed for £5,000 when market is £15,000
- Multiple high value cards from new seller at 50% off market
- “Lot of 100 vintage holos” for £200
Reality: If deal seems too good, it’s fake or scam.
Red Flag 2: Seller Won’t Provide Detailed Photos
- Only stock photos shown
- Refuses to photograph card back
- Won’t provide close-ups of energy symbols or text
- Photos are blurry or poorly lit
Reality: Legitimate sellers provide any photos requested.
Red Flag 3: No Returns Accepted
- “All sales final” on expensive cards
- “No returns due to authenticity concerns” (ironic)
Reality: Honest sellers accept returns because they know cards are genuine.
Red Flag 4: Seller History Suspicious
- New account with high value cards
- Sudden shift to selling Pokémon cards after selling unrelated items
- Multiple negative feedback about authenticity
Reality: Scammers create burner accounts or hijack existing accounts.
Red Flag 5: Card Seems “Too Perfect”
- Vintage card looks absolutely pristine (suspiciously so)
- No signs of age despite being 25+ years old
- Edges too white, corners too sharp for age
Reality: Vintage cards show some age. Perfect condition is rare. If it looks too new, might be new (fake).
Best Practices for Safe Buying
1. Always request multiple photos:
- Front and back, well lit
- Close-up of energy symbols
- Close-up of text
- Angled shot showing holofoil (if applicable)
- Card back
2. Ask for light test photo:
- If seller refuses, walk away
- Legitimate sellers accommodate reasonable requests
3. Check seller feedback thoroughly:
- Read negative feedback specifically
- Look for patterns (multiple people saying “fake”)
- Check feedback left for others (do they buy cards too, suggesting knowledge?)
4. Compare to market prices:
- Check sold listings on eBay
- Check current prices on TCGPlayer
- If price is 20%+ below market, investigate why
5. Use buyer protection:
- PayPal Goods and Services (not Friends and Family)
- eBay Money Back Guarantee
- Credit card chargeback as last resort
6. For high value (£500+), consider graded only:
- PSA/BGS/CGC authenticated cards eliminate fake risk
- Pay premium for certainty
- Still verify slab itself isn’t fake (yes, fake slabs exist)
Verifying Graded Cards (Yes, Slabs Can Be Fake Too)
Fake Slab Indicators
Problem: Sophisticated scammers create fake PSA/BGS/CGC slabs with fake cards inside
How to verify PSA slabs:
- Check certification number on PSA website (psacard.com/cert)
- Verify cert number matches card description
- Check slab quality (genuine PSA slabs have specific weight, feel, seams)
- Look for PSA QR code (newer slabs)
- Examine label font and positioning (fakes often have slight differences)
How to verify BGS slabs:
- Check certification on Beckett website
- Verify holographic label (should have specific holographic pattern)
- Check subgrade alignment (should be perfectly aligned)
How to verify CGC slabs:
- Check certification on CGC website
- Verify label has proper CGC security features
- Check barcode scans properly
Additional verification:
- Compare slab to known genuine slab you own
- Weight should match (genuine slabs have consistent weight)
- Edges and seams should match genuine
What to Do If You Bought a Fake
Immediate Actions
1. Document everything:
- Photograph card from all angles
- Photograph packaging
- Save all correspondence with seller
- Screenshot listing before it’s removed
2. Contact seller:
- Explain card appears counterfeit
- Provide evidence (photos, test results)
- Request full refund
- Give them opportunity to resolve
3. If seller refuses:
- Open dispute with platform (eBay, PayPal, etc.)
- Provide all evidence
- Explain why card is fake
- Request full refund including shipping
4. If dispute denied:
- Credit card chargeback (if paid with credit card)
- Report seller to platform
- Leave negative feedback warning others
What NOT to Do
Don’t keep quiet: Report fakes. Protects other collectors.
Don’t try to resell: Selling known fakes is illegal and unethical.
Don’t destroy evidence: Keep card and packaging until dispute resolved.
Don’t wait: Most platforms have time limits for disputes (30 to 180 days).
My Personal Verification Checklist (What I Actually Do)
For Online Purchases (Before Buying)
- ✓ Check seller feedback (98%+, 50+ transactions minimum)
- ✓ Compare price to market (if 20%+ below, investigate)
- ✓ Request photos: front, back, energy symbols close-up, text close-up
- ✓ Request light test photo (if seller refuses, don’t buy)
- ✓ Compare photos to my known genuine cards
- ✓ Check energy symbols are sharp
- ✓ Verify fonts look correct
- ✓ Check card back colour matches
- ✓ If all pass, buy with buyer protection payment method
Upon Receiving Card (In Person Inspection)
- ✓ Light test immediately
- ✓ Side-by-side comparison with genuine card
- ✓ Feel cardstock weight and texture
- ✓ Examine holofoil pattern (if applicable)
- ✓ Check all text and symbols under magnification
- ✓ If anything fails, initiate return immediately
For High Value (£500+)
- ✓ All above steps PLUS
- ✓ Consider professional authentication
- ✓ Buy graded when possible
- ✓ If graded, verify cert number online
- ✓ Compare slab to known genuine slab
Final Thoughts: Trust Your Gut
That £750 Charizard I almost bought looked fine in photos. 98% positive feedback seller. Decent price but not suspiciously low. Everything seemed legitimate.
But something felt off. The energy symbols were slightly blurry. Seller refused light test. My gut said no.
Turned out seller was running sophisticated counterfeit operation. Multiple people lost money before account suspended.
The lesson: If something feels wrong, walk away. There will always be another card. Better to miss a deal than buy a fake.
The checklist approach works: Multiple verification methods. No single test is 100% reliable, but combination of tests catches fakes.
Experience helps: The more genuine cards you handle, the better you get at spotting fakes. Your brain learns what “right” looks like.
When in doubt: Don’t buy. Simple as that.
Protecting yourself from fakes is about knowledge, vigilance, and discipline. Use the tools in this chapter. Don’t let FOMO override caution. Your collection will thank you.
This completes Chapter 7 on identifying fake Pokémon cards.